After 2 years of owning the Andersen hitch it’s time to write a review. Would I buy it again? Is it easy to install? Does it work well? Get the answers.
Would I buy the Aluminum Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection again?
To get straight to the point, YES. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy it again.
Is this the right hitch for everyone? No, but I believe it is the most innovative hitch out there and it’s backed by a great company. Read on to see why love this hitch and why I say it might not be the best hitch for everyone.
Why did I choose the Andersen Ultimate hitch over another model?
When I made the step up from my hybrid travel trailer to a 5th wheel that meant I would also need to make a change from my trusty Equalizer Hitch to a 5th wheel hitch.
I needed a hitch that would be easy to install and remove
I am very much a weekend warrior, hence the name of the website. I use my truck during the week for hauling everything from rock and lumber to my son’s ATV. With that in mind, I wanted a hitch that would be relatively easy to install and remove from the bed of my truck. I immediately threw out the option of an auto-sliding hitch because of the weight. Even compared to a manual sliding hitch the Andersen hitch easily won the ease of installation and removal test.
I needed a hitch that would work with a standard/short (6-1/2’) bed truck
Since I already owned a Ram 3500 with a 6-1/2’ bed I needed a hitch that would still provide good maneuverability. I have seen the horror stories and pictures of shattered rear windows from someone cutting it too sharp and crashing the front cap of their RV right into the back window of the truck.
I didn’t want that to happen to me.
The thought of that happening had me leaning strongly toward a sliding hitch even though I knew it would be harder to get in and out of the truck.
Before deciding on the Andersen hitch, I read as many forum posts and watched as many YouTube videos as I could find related to the Hitch and short bed trucks. I even called the factory to ask about the specific combination of truck and trailer I would be using. In the end I decided that there was enough evidence to give the Andersen a try.
How Many Variations of the Andersen Hitch Are There?
After deciding on the Andersen hitch the next step was to pick a specific version. When I bought my hitch Andersen was making 4 variations of the Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection.
There are currently 3 options available.
- Aluminum Gooseneck – This version is made from aluminum and attaches to a gooseneck ball in the bed of you truck.
- Lowered Aluminum Gooseneck – This version is also made of aluminum and attaches to a gooseneck ball in the bed of your truck, but the ball height is 4” lower for use on flatbed trucks.
- Steel Rail Mount – This version of the hitch is made of steel and attaches to industry standard Rails (ISR) mounted in the bed of your truck.
At the time I purchased my hitch a steel version of the gooseneck hitch was also available.
Which version did I choose?
I picked the gooseneck over the rail version for several reasons. My truck is equipped with the factory prep package meaning that I could drop a gooseneck ball into the bed quickly and easily. To use the rail version, I would have to purchase a rail adapter that connected into the factory prep pucks. The rail adapter is heavier and more expensive than the gooseneck ball. Finally, I believe the gooseneck version is more secure providing less room for movement between the hitch and the truck.
I had originally decided to purchase the steel gooseneck hitch (this model is no longer available). It weighed much less than all the other hitches I had looked at and had a lower price than the aluminum version. I waited until the last minute and placed an order for the hitch about 1 week before I was going to trade in my Shamrock Hybrid for a Cougar 5th wheel.
I had the Curt gooseneck ball and anchor kit for my Ram prep, but the day before I was going to make a 6-hour trip from Ohio to Kentucky to pickup the new camper the hitch still hadn’t arrived.
I checked the tracking number and found out that my new hitch was still 2 days away, something had happened in shipping that delayed the delivery.
Great Customer service from Andersen
So, I had 1 day to find a hitch, or I would have to delay my trip. I called Andersen and was given the cell phone number of the sales rep for my area. My call to him went to voicemail, but I received a call back within 1 hour. He was able to give me the names of several dealers around me and on my way that should have the hitch in stock.
I called the closest dealer and found out that they had 3 of the aluminum gooseneck version in stock. By this time it was getting late. I asked them to hold one for me. I said I would be in early the next morning to pick it up.
Aluminum vs Steel
My original plan was to purchase the steel version because of the cost savings, but after handling both models I am glad I have the aluminum version. I received the steel hitch about a week after picking up the aluminum version and shipped it back.
There is another argument that steel is stronger than aluminum. Although that’s true in this situation it doesn’t matter. Why? Because the material was part of the design of the hitch so even if steel is stronger, the aluminum hitch is more than capable of handling the rated load.
Owning and using the Andersen Hitch
Now, let’s talk about using the hitch. If you have been following along, you probably realized that I was going to be picking up the hitch on the way to pickup my new camper. I was putting a lot of faith in the easy installation of this hitch. Otherwise, I was going to be 6 hours from home with a new camper and no way to tow it.
So, I hooked up my equalizer hitch to my travel trailer and left to pickup the Andersen hitch then continue to get the new RV. Based on what I knew of the installation process I packed up a socket set, a set of allen wrenches and an adjustable wrench.
Installation Measurements
The Andersen installation manual has 2 sections dedicated to measurements. These measurements help to determine the turning clearance you will have with your specific truck and RV. You can use my measurements to help you estimate the turning clearance you will have with your combination.
If you are considering purchasing this hitch please take your own measurements and then compare them to mine. This should help you to understand how well you will be able to maneuver your RV when using the hitch.
Measurements 1 and 2
These to measurements give you and estimation of your turning clearance. The manual refers to “perfect clearance” happening if Measurement 1 is Shorter than Measurement 2.
This means that if your 5th wheel was at a 90 degree angle to your truck, you will still have clearance between the side of the RV and rear window of the truck.
I do not have “perfect clearance” but I have had no problem maneuvering into tight camping spots, even in heavily wooded campgrounds.
Measurement 1 – 53”
Measurement 2 – 42”
In my case M1 – M2 = 53” – 42” = 11”, so I am 11” short of perfect clearance.
One reason that this isn’t as bad as it sounds is because Measurement 1 is not taken straight out to the side, it is angled back towards the rear of the radius on the front cap. That means that the actual interference between the truck and camper is much less than 11”
Bigger sweeps and cutouts in the front corners of your 5th wheel give you more clearance when turning.
Measurements 3,4 and 5
They measure the clearance between the pinbox, side rails of your bed (or tonneau cover) and tailgate. These measurements will help you to determine which way to mount the coupler to your 5th wheel’s kingpin.
Measurement 3 is taken with the ball socket in the front and rear of the kinppin. If you measure to the center of your kingpin just add or subtract 4” to get these 2 measurements.
Measurement 3 (position 1) – 32”
Measurement 3 (position 2) – 24”
Measurement 4 – 29”
Measurement 5 – 41”
These measurements were taken with my American Roll Cover tonneau cover and rails installed, so my measurement 4 is shorter than normal.
With the coupler in position 1 the back edge of my pinbox would interfere with the bed cover rails by 4”. It would be impossible to make a 90 degree turn even if I had a long bed truck with more clearance between the cab and front of the camper. In most cases you shouldn’t have a problem with measurement 5 being too short.
My initial thoughts when receiving the hitch
When I arrived, the dealer had the hitch behind the counter with my name on it. It comes packaged in 1 large cardboard box. Someone from the parts department rolled the box out to my truck on a dolly and set it down. The box is large, about 3’ x 3’ x 2’, but was surprisingly light when I picked it up.
Now was the first test. How easy was it going to be to install in the truck?
Installation of the Andersen 5th Wheel Connection
Installing the hitch in your truck
Before installing the hitch in your truck, you will need a gooseneck ball. I purchased the Curt ball and anchor kit that is made for the ram factory prep package. The ball installs in a few seconds by lifting a tab on the top then dropping it into the hole in the middle of the bed.
Curt gooseneck ball kit
Curt gooseneck ball kit installed
When you remove the hitch from the box for the first time the coupler that mounts to the king pin of your fifth wheel is zip tied to the frame of the hitch. This was my biggest problem during the installation. Since I was installing the hitch on the road, I hadn’t brought any snips to cut the tie.
Once the coupler was removed, the next step is to flip the ball over. The ball is installed upside down to reduce the overall height for shipping. This just requires removing the cotter pin and then the large pin that holds the ball in place.
The ball has 3 holes to choose from for adjusting the height. I decided to set the ball in the highest position. I wanted the most clearance between the camper and the truck.
After that you just have to secure the hitch to the gooseneck ball. Read on for a more detailed description of the installation process.
The time from opening the box until I was ready to get back on the road was about 30 min (I can install the hitch much faster now).
Installing the Andersen ball coupler on your 5th wheel
After trading in my old camper, filling out all the paperwork and doing a walk-through of the new (to me) Cougar I was ready to install the coupler and try the hitch out on the 6-hour drive home.
The concept of how the coupler installs is simple.
- First, insert the king pin into the large hole.
- Next, 2 long shoulder bolts lock the coupler to the king pin.
- Finally, 4 set screws tighten everything down and lock it in place.
There are 2 options when installing the coupler. It can be installed with the ball socket in front of the king pin, this is the standard position. Or it can be rotated 180 degrees and be installed with the ball socket behind the king pin. The second position moves the trailer about 8” closer to the truck compared to the standard position.
Because my Cougar wasn’t new, the king pin had a few knicks and some surface rust. These imperfections stopped the coupler from sliding over the pin. A quick cleanup with some sand paper and a couple taps with a mallet (both items were courtesy of the service department at the dealer) and the coupler was on.
Before installing the long bolts around the king pin the “Ball Funnel” is placed around the coupler and then the bolts are installed and tightened down.
I located the coupler with the ball socket in front of the king pin. Again, I was trying to take the most conservative position since this would be the first time I towed with this hitch and camper.
Locating the remote latch cable
The remote latch cable is used to engage and disengage the coupler from the ball of the hitch. The hitch comes with a mounting bracket and 2 self-tapping screws. Andersen suggests mounting the bracket to the front of your 5th wheel using the 2 screws into the frame, or using magnets. I had ordered 2 heavy duty magnets ahead of time and used them to locate the release handle near the back of the pin box. I can reach the release when standing behind the truck, or from the side.
Total installation time
If you are going to install the hitch at home and have all the tools needed, the job should only take about 30 – 40 minutes.
Hitch Adjustments
After the initial installation of you hitch you might find a few adjustments are necessary to get the setup just right.
As I mentioned above, when I first installed my hitch I set the ball to the highest position and installed the coupler with the ball socket to the front. My thought was to get as much clearance as possible between the truck and the camper.
After that first trip with the Andersen hitch I made a few adjustments.
Height adjustment
There is a tradeoff to consider when setting the ball height.
- High setting
- Pro – most clearance between the bed and camper.
- Con – Front high position of the RV creates worse ride and handling.
- Low setting
- Pro – More level ride height of RV with better suspension alignment and handling.
- Con – Camper could hit bed rails when turning on uneven ground.
I ended up using the middle position. My 5th wheel rides slightly nose high, but still has plenty of clearance.
FYI: If the side walls of your bed are very tall the lowest setting might not be an option for you.
Ball coupler orientation
This one only has 2 options.
- Ball forward position
- Pro – Creates the most clearance between back window of your truck and the front cap of the camper possibly allowing sharper turns.
- Con – Places the back edge of the pin box closer to the bed rails when turning.
- Ball rearward position
- Pro – Adds clearance between bed rails and back of pin box
- Con – Moves front cap closer to the back of the truck
On the trip home after picking up my 5th wheel I made sure not to make any very sharp turns because I didn’t know how much clearance I had. Shortly after installing the hitch I made a trip to the parking lot of a boat launch to test the limits and determine if any changes were needed.
I learned that with the coupler installed in the ball forward position, if I made a sharp turn the back side of the pin box could hit the rails for my American Roll Cover tonneau cover.
After loosening the set screws and rotating the coupler to place the ball socket towards the rear of the camper. I am still able to turn about 90 degrees. Now the front cap sits a little closer to the camper, but I don’t run the risk of damaging the rails of my tonneau cover when turning.
Everyday Use: The Andersen Ultimate Connection vs Traditional 5th wheel Hitches
This is where I believe the Andersen hitch really stands out compared to the other options you have. You can read over and over about the light weight of this hitch, but until you actually use it and carry it around, you don’t really understand how nice it is.
How long does it take to install or remove the hitch?
It takes about 15 minutes from the time I step out of my house until I am ready to hook up my camper.
The 15 minutes includes:
- Installing the gooseneck ball and chain anchors in the truck
- Getting the hitch out of the camper
- Installing the hitch in the truck
- Backing up to the camper
Installing the gooseneck ball and chain anchors
I use the Curt gooseneck ball and anchor kit. The kit comes in a molded plastic box that I store in the front compartment of my camper. The kit installs in 3 steps and takes about 2 minutes.
- Remove the factory plastic covers from the puck locations (you will not use the 2 pucks closest to the cab of the truck)
- Install the ball. Lift the lever on the top, lower it into the puck and then lower the lever.
- Install the chain anchors. Drop the anchors in the pucks, rotate 90 degrees, then install the locking pin and cotter pin.
One problem I had with this setup was that the locking pins from the chain anchors hit the frame of the hitch. I had to cut them down which makes it a little tougher to remove the pins.
Getting the hitch out of the camper
With most 5th wheel hitches this wouldn’t even be an option. You would have to store the hitch in the garage or shed. My RV has a bike door in the back, I set my hitch inside the door. I can quickly get the hitch when I need it, and it is out of the way when I don’t.
Installing the hitch in the truck
After taking the hitch out of the camper I just carry it over to the truck and set it on the tailgate. Then Climb up into the truck and secure the hitch. This is another place where the light weight is a huge advantage. I have friends who use tractors or chain hoists in their garage to get their 5th wheel hitch in and out of the truck.
I can carry the Andersen hitch in 1 hand!
A torque wrench is the only tool needed to tighten the hitch down. I bought an inexpensive one and a 15/16” socket that I keep with the hitch. That way it is always there when I need it. Since I only use this wrench for the hitch it is always set to 50 ft-lbs and ready to go.
Like most things with this hitch the installation process is simple and only takes a minute or two.
- Remove the cotter pin and ½” diameter pin at the base of the hitch.
- Set the hitch over the gooseneck ball and center it up.
- Reinstall the ½” pin and cotter pin.
- Tighten the bolt on the top of the hitch to 50 ft-lbs.
- Tighten the 2 locking screws on the back to 40 ft-lbs.
Andersen recommends loosening the locking screws connecting your camper and re-torquing the main bolt and set screws in case things settle under the weight of the camper. This only needs to be done 1 time. If you do leave your hitch in the truck for several weeks or months, it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to check it occasionally.
How to connect the Andersen hitch to your RV
The process of connecting your truck and the camper is more like connecting a gooseneck trailer than a 5th wheel. The only difference is that the ball sits at the height of a 5th wheel hitch instead of down in the bed.
In the video below I install and remove the hitch from my truck as well as connect and disconnect the trailer.
With my setup I still cannot see the ball, so I need a spotter or I have to get out to check when I’m backing in. I have tried setting a flag on the hitch, which does help, when it doesn’t fall off. The best way to see what is going on would be to use a portable hitch camera, or have one of the factory cameras that are mounted in the center stop light.
Here is the Step by step process I use to connect:
- Open your tailgate! (You don’t want to forget this step)
- Lower your front landing gear until the coupler is a few inches higher than the ball of the hitch.
- Back in until the ball is under the socket in the coupler (if your RV is too high you need to be a little forward of the center of the coupler to account for the movement as it lowers).
- Retract the landing gear until the weight starts to shift to the truck.
- Slide the handle in on the remote latch cable and turn clockwise to lock in place.
- Fully retract you landing gear.
To unhook the camper from the truck simply reverse the process. Just remember to do step 1 first in either case.
Bonus Tip:
This is for anyone with an auto level system. There is a quick and easy way, with most systems, to get back in the right position when you are ready to leave camp. My 5th wheel has the Lippert ground control system.
If I follow these steps.
- Raise the camper off the hitch
- Move the truck
- Press the auto level button.
When you are ready to hook back up just press and hold the left and right buttons at the same time. This will retract the rear jacks and then raise the front of the camper to the same height it was at when you unhooked. If you have a different brand system check your manual for how to activate this feature.
Remote latch cable assembly
This was one area I was concerned with when looking at the hitch. I was worried that it would be difficult to push in and out, or that it would not stay locked in place. All traditional 5th wheel hitches use a locking mechanism the prevents the hitch from releasing, but the Andersen does not have an additional latch or pin to secure it.
To engage the latch, you push the handle in and then turn it about ½ a turn clockwise to lock the latch in place. I am happy to report that I have never had the latch loosen. My longest trip was about 500 miles and the latch was just as tight when I got there as it was when I left.
The latch is also surprisingly easy to engage and disengage. Even when the truck and camper are on uneven ground it doesn’t bind.
How does the Ball Funnel work?
The ball funnel has been redesigned since I bought my hitch. Although it is made differently it still performs the same function.
The funnel guides the ball into the socket on the coupler if you aren’t perfectly aligned. The manufacturer states that it will work up to 3” off center, but I don’t recommend it.
If you are off center by more than about 1” pull forward and try again.
What happens when you are too far off is the ball funnel will push the entire camper to get the ball aligned with the socket. This doesn’t sound bad until you realize the weight of the camper is still being supported by the front landing gear. When the funnel starts pushing the camper the landing gear will flex and skip across the ground. I prefer not to put this extra stress on the landing gear. I would rather take an extra minute or two to line up better.
Connecting when uneven or at an angle
One benefit I like about the Andersen hitch is that you can connect at almost any angle. I have been in tight campsites with a tree directly across from where I was parked. It was no problem to back in at an angle, then I could pull out heading down the road instead of at the tree.
Another nice feature is being able to connect and disconnect when the ground is uneven between the camper and truck. Because of the ball design the hitch won’t bind like some 5th wheel hitches do. You can just lift or lower the coupler on or off the ball in about any position.
The picture below shows my truck and camper just before disconnecting. It is not a worst-case scenario, but you can see they are not level. The hitch lifted off the ball easily without binding.
Towing with the Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Connection
This is another place where I would give the advantage to the Andersen hitch.
What is the ride like?
Because the hitch itself is tightened down to the gooseneck ball and bed there is no movement or rattling between the hitch and truck. Likewise, the Andersen ball is locked securely in the coupler. What this means is that when you are driving down the road you don’t feel any “bucking or chucking” that is normally associated with 5th wheels. You can get this level of precision in a high end traditional hitch, but they are usually 2-3 times the price and weight of the Andersen.
Can I make a 90 degree turn with a short bed truck and the Andersen hitch?
The answer is maybe.
I know that probably isn’t the answer you were looking for. This was one of my biggest concerns when deciding what hitch to get. I didn’t want to get in a situation where I was stuck and couldn’t get into a campsite or gas station because the turn was going to be too sharp.
The answer to the question is really based on your combination of truck and camper. You can see in this video that it is possible even with a 5-1/2 foot bed to make almost a 90 degree turn.
With my combination I can turn very close to 90 degrees. Although it’s possible, I actually try to avoid very sharp turns because the twisting of the campers axles and wheels worries me long before I am close to having the camper hit the back of the truck.
Storing the hitch when not in use
You would be hard pressed to find another 5th wheel hitch that is as easy to store as the Andersen hitch. I can carry the hitch with 1 hand through the door of my camper and set it on the floor to store it. For me this is great for 2 reasons. It stays clean being in the camper not on the garage floor. I also like it because it is always easy to get to and ready to go. Not shoved in some corner who knows what in the way.
The technical stuff (features and specs)
If you are looking for the technical specs on the Andersen hitch here they are. Keep in mind these are for the Aluminum Gooseneck version. The specs vary slightly for other versions of the hitch. I have included the offset between the gooseneck ball and the king pin, this can be useful for estimating the max angle you will be able to turn.
Hitch Specs
|
Max Trailer Weight |
24,000 lbs |
|
Max Tongue Weight |
4,500 lbs |
|
Height from bed to top of ball |
16-3/4”, 17-7/8”, 19-1/8” |
|
Distance from gooseneck ball to kingpin |
9-3/8” behind gooseneck, 1-3/8” behind gooseneck |
|
Weight (hitch only, not coupler) |
35 lbs |
Safety Chain Kit
The only real option for this hitch is the safety chain kit. The kit includes 2 bolts with large rings to replace the king pin bolts. It also includes 2 heavy duty chains with hooks to attach between the bolts and the chain anchors in your truck. The kit can be added later by loosening the set screws on the coupler. Then, replace the king pin bolts one at a time. Finally, tighten the set screws back down.
I spent some time debating the pros and cons of the chain kit and decided to install it. I know that most 5th wheel hitches don’t have or need safety chains. Although I could agree with most of the arguments for not using the safety chain kit, here is my reasoning on why I think you should use it too.
It can save you time and frustration!
You may be thinking how? Isn’t is adding an extra step every time I hookup my camper? You are right it will add about 30 seconds to the process. The reason I say it can save you time is I would rather spend 30 seconds to connect the safety chains and not have the possibility of spending minutes or hours explaining why you don’t need them to a highway patrol officer. Even worse you RV could be impounded or you could be forced to un-hitch on the spot.
Because of the non-traditional configuration of this hitch there is a large and ongoing debate about the legal requirements for safety chains. This debate gets more confusing if you are crossing state lines where the laws and interpretations may differ. The chain kit is inexpensive, so I think it is worth the investment.
Things I don’t like or would change
There isn’t much I don’t like about this hitch. The only real improvement I would like to see would be for Andersen to design a latching mechanism that doesn’t require a torque wrench. I think some sort of lever that tightened the hitch to the ball and then pins in place would be great. Although, any additional parts would add weight the hitch.
Who shouldn’t use the Andersen hitch?
There are a few cases where I would not recommend this hitch.
- Full time RV’ers with a short bed truck. If you full time you probably never take your hitch out of the truck. In this case the light weight design gives you no advantage. What would give you and advantage is an auto-sliding hitch like the SuperGlide. The auto-slider would give you the most options when maneuvering in tight places with no need to adjust the hitch like a manual slider.
- People towing with truck beds shorter than 6’. Even though Andersen has shown that this hitch can be used with 5-1/2’ beds, your particular combination may limit you to much less than 90 degrees when turning. In this case I would suggest using a traditional hitch like the Curt A16 and the Reese Sidewinder pinbox. With the sidewinder the pivot point is shifted backward about 20” creating much more room between the trailer and truck when turning. The down side of this combination is it will run you 3x the cost of the Andersen hitch.
Everything you need to install and use the Andersen Ultimate Hitch
Here is a list of all the items you need to install and use the Andersen hitch. I keep a torque wrench and socket in my RV so that even if I am using my tools for another project I always have what I need to install or remove the hitch. Also, since the hitch is so easy to install and remove you might want to take it out of the bed once you arrive at your destination.
If you found this review helpful, I would really appreciate it if you used the links below to purchase your new hitch and accessories from Amazon. It won’t cost you any more money, but I receive a small commission that helps me to create more content like this. Thanks in advance.
Items Needed (with factory prep package)
- Andersen Ultimate Aluminum 5th Wheel Connection (gooseneck)
- Curt Gooseneck Ball Kit (Ford, GM and Nissan Kit or Ram Kit)
- Safety Chain Kit (optional, but recommended)
- Magnetic base (for mounting remote latch cable)
- Torque Wrench (economical version to leave with your RV)
- ½” drive socket, 15/16” (to keep with the torque wrench)
For Installation only
- Sandpaper or file (to cleanup kingpin when installing coupler)
- ¼” allen wrench (for set screws)
- 15/16” socket with ratchet and 15/16” open end wrench or 2 medium-size adjustable wrenches (to install king pin bolts)
Conclusion
I know this review may sound too good, but this really is a great hitch. I paid full price for my hitch and I am not being compensated by Andersen for this review. I just want to share my experience with this product to help you decide what will be best for your situation.
If you have any questions or if you own this hitch and want to share your experience, please leave a comment below.
Thanks for reading and enjoy your next Weekend RV Adventure,
Jason
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This is the best and most thorough installation review I have found for the Andersen Ultimate 5th wheel hitch. I will purchasing one soon to replace my old Reese slider hitch. I have been wondering how I would install the remote latch. I did not want to bolt it to the fiberglass of the trailer, and I love the magnet idea. Also love that you included a link to the magnets on Amazon. Thanks, after going thru your install review, I am confident that I will be prepared and able to install my new hitch. Thanks!!
Jerry, The remote latch was one of my concerns too, I didn’t like the idea of drilling into the front of my camper. The magnets have worked out great for me. Good luck on the move from the slider, I’m sure you will love the Andersen hitch.
Jason
Jason,
Thank you for your review. I have just purchased a new Montana High Country and went round and round with the dealer about hitches. I have a short bed Ram 3500 and they were (and still are) insisting that it will not work on my 6 1/2 foot bed. I am going ahead with the Anderson Hitch but will have to install the coupler myself when I pick up the 5th wheel. The dealer refuses to accept the liability. Based on your review and the You Tube videos I have seen I am confident I made the right choice.
Thanks again.
Sean, I hope you enjoy your new High Country, I have a friend with one and he loves his. I know the front cap is a little flatter than my Cougar, but I think you should still have plenty of room to maneuver. I installed my coupler at the dealer, the only recommendation I have for you is to take some sandpaper or a file. If the king pin on the new 5th wheel has any nicks or surface rust you will be able to smooth it out and install the coupler without beating it on.
Thanks, Jason
Love my Anderson Ultimate hitch. When I return home it takes 3 minutes to remove it and I hang it on the garage wall.
Randy, I’m happy to hear you love your hitch too. Hanging it on the wall is another great way to store the hitch. I’m sure there isn’t anyone out there with a traditional 5th wheel hitch hanging off a hook on their wall.
Jason
My only comment is that when u install you are supposed to tighten to 40lbs then place the weight of the trailer on the hitch then retorque to 60 BEFORE you tighten the two back bolts. If you torque the back two bolts before placing the weight on the hitch you are damaging the under coupler as the hitch will drop with the weight of the trailer on it.
Dan, thanks for the comment. Andersen has revised their installation instructions several times since the ultimate connection was introduced. I just downloaded the latest version of the manual from the website. The process from that manual is:
Thanks for keeping me on top of things.
Jason
Thanks a lot for the 5th wheel hitch review. Absolutely love it. Needed to know if the CURT 16130 Q20 Fifth Wheel Hitch is safe as some online users commented about the safety while using this hitch and the installation difficulties.
Mary, I haven’t heard about any safety issues with the Curt Q20, but ill keep my ears open. I do know installing a 5th wheel hitch with an under bed mounting system can be challenging.
Jason
Jason your blog is perfect for 1st-timers and experienced RVers alike. Just towed my new 5W the 1st 5 miles via F350 4×4 w/ my new Andersen Hitch safety chains installed. The high truck profile makes it hard to connect the chains, breakaway cord and lights, so I’ll carry a step stool in back of bed. Thanks to your blog, I got the magnets for the connection cable and that works great. I even flipped (reversed) the coupler to give more pin box clearance. All this…thanks to your site!
Donna, Thank you for the compliment. I’m on the shorter side myself, so I understand the struggle. The running boards on my truck run all the way back to the rear fenders so I can stand on them to connect the cord and chains. I don’t know if you’ve seen it, but the AMP Research BedStep2 could be just what you need. It’s a step that mounts in front of the rear wheels and folds out when you need to use. Here’s a link to check it out on Amazon. I’m not sure what year your F350 is, the one in the link fits 2017 and newer. Thanks again, Jason
Hi Jason, I just purchased the Ultimate 5th wheel hitch for my 2012 F350 Crew Cab short bed. I have the hitch in the truck bed but have not yet had the opportunity to hook up since my 5th wheel is in the shop for some repairs. I know that you said you mounted the ball coupler block in the back position due to your pin box possibly hitting your tonneau cover rails. Would you mind sharing the measurements 1 – 5 (measurement 3 has 2 position) from the installation directions? I would like to compare them to mine. These are mine: M1: 51″, M2: 42 7/8″, M3P1: 33″, M3P2: 25″, M4: 32″, & M5: 40 1/4″. Thanks.
Jerry, my version of the installation directions didn’t have any measurements. If you can describe them I can try to get my measurements and post them here. If you can send me a picture of the manual page that would work as well. Just send me an email at jason@weekendrvadventures.com
Thanks,
Jason
Emailed a pdf scan of the pages with the measurement directions. 🙂
Thanks,
Jerry
Great review! I do have one suggestion, though, regarding your torque wrench. Your review states that you keep your torque wrench set at 50 ft-lbs because you only use it for your hitch. Click-type torque wrenches should be stored at their lowest setting to keep from fatiguing the internal spring and changing the calibration, resulting in lower torque than what is set.
Jeff, I completely agree. My other torque wrench is always stored at the lowest setting. I guess it’s just lazyness that I leave the one with the hitch set.
Thanks for the sharing that advice.
Jason
Thank you that puts my mind at rest will purchase one we are going to purchase a Grand Design reflection
29 rS
I’m sure you will love it.
Jason
We just purchased a Grand Design Reflection 29rs and have not taken delivery yet. I have a 2016 Ram 3500 with the 6 1/2 bed and have been having a hard time finding information on a good hitch camper combo, until I found your blog! I’ve been trying to find info on someone with the same truck as mine and what they are using for a hitch. You answered all the questions that I couldn’t find answers to for the last month. I just ordered the Andersen hitch and want to thank you for the great info! Happy camping!
Michael,
Thank you for the compliments. I am glad I was able to help you out. I’m sure you will love your new camper and hitch. If you get a chance please let me know what you think of it after a couple of uses.
Thanks,
Jason
I owned a 2015 Ram 1500 ecodiesel and a Northtrail 24bhs, tag a long. Traded the NT for a Cougar xLite 28dbh 5th wheel. Was talked into an expensive PullRite slider 5th wheel hitch. I used it twice. Traded the Ram in for a 2016 Nissan Titan XD w/ 5.0 cummins. The Titan XD has factory gooseneck pockets. After buying the Nissan gooseneck to 5th wheel adaptor, attaching my slider hitch to it, the weight is over 225 pounds. Installed an electric hoist in the garage to be able to install it by myself. After reading you review, the whole hitch is on Craigslist and I am ordering the aluminum Anderson Ultimate 5th wheel hitch! Can’t wait to get in installed and my maiden voyage. Thank you for the very well written and thorough review.
Mike,
I’m sorry to hear you were talked into such a heavy and expensive setup. I’m sure it worked great, but needing an electric hoist just to get a hitch out of the bed isn’t worth it. Thanks for the compliments. I’m sure you will love the new hitch the first time you pick it up.
Jason
Hi i have my Andersen hitch for 6 months now and I like my hitch I have 6 1/2 2011 Dodge 2500
Vlad, great to hear you like your hitch. Would you mind sharing what camper you are pulling with it? Thanks, Jason
This is a very informative article. Is there a similar article on the rail mounted system? Also can you give me the link to the magnets you bought from Amazon.
Charles,
Thanks, I don’t have an article for the rail mounted version, but other than the way it mounts, the rail version is pretty much the same. The other thing I would note is that the rail version is made of steel and is a little bit heavier than the aluminum gooseneck. As for the magnets, here is the link.
Thanks again,
Jason
Jason, your review is the best and most thorough I have been able to find, especially for standard short bed trucks. I am waiting for the new GMC HD trucks to come out before i make my decision of which truck to purchase. But my eyes have been on the Andersen hitch. I have a Montana 5th wheel which has a flatter front end which will make it more challenging in tight turns. Your review gives me confidence to give it a try. Thank you.
Thanks, I went thru the same thing before deciding to try the Andersen Hitch. My goal with the review was to share everything I learned to make it easier on you.
If you have any questions I didn’t answer please let me know
Jason
Jason, or anyone with my combo….,
Just purchased a 2017 Grand Design Solitude 310. I have mixed comments from various sources about whether the turning radius will be hampered. I have a 2017 Ford F-250 SD 61/2 ft bed with factory puck system in the back.
I started out wanting the Anderson, but concerned about the ability to turn sharply.
I’m picking up this week. Any immediate help would be appreciated.
Barry, unless you use a slider, any short bed 5th wheel combination will be hampered to some degree. What matters is how much. I looked at some pictures of the 310, and it looks to have a similar front cap profile to mine, except your pinbox does appear to be a little further back. This will probably lessen your turning radius somewhat from what I have. While driving forward I wouldn’t expect to have any problems, but you will be limited a little when backing. If you are coming from a bumper pull trailer my guess is you will still be able to turn sharper with the Andersen. If you are looking to get into really tight camping spots in the woods, then get a slider, otherwise I think the Andersen should be fine. I just want to wrap this up by saying, without actually having the combination hooked up you will never know for sure, so these are just my opinions. Maybe someone will chime in with a similar setup to yours.
Thanks, Jason
Jason, this is the most thorough review of setting up and using the Andersen Ultimate that I have been able to find; thank you!
I have a 2016 Ram 25004×4 and plan to upgrade to a Cedar Creek Silverback 33IK. After reading your review, I feel I now know the measurements to check. But am curious about the trailer riding nose high to get adequate clearance over the bed sides. You said, “I ended up using the middle position. My 5th wheel rides slightly nose high, but still has plenty of clearance.” Do you know in inches how nose high your trailer sits and what your bed side clearance is?
Thanks,
Tim
Thanks Tim,
Here are a few measurements I took in my driveway.
Clearance between bed rail and underside of 5th wheel – 8.5″
Height Difference from front to back of 5th wheel – 6″ nose high
That 6″ might sound like a lot, but over the length of the camper it’s less than a 1 degree angle.
I could have used the lower position, but when making turns on uneven terrain that 8.5″ clearance can come down quickly.
I hope that helps you.
Jason
I have Andersen rail system. Purchased Andersen safety chains & Curt 5th wheel safety chain bracket kit, which I cannot get to work in my rails. The bolt won’t slide through my rails. Do you have any suggestions?
Chuck,
Unfortunately I don’t have any first hand experience with the rail mount hitch. I know bed mats/rugs can cause a problem with mounting some hitches, maybe that could be your problem? If you do figure it out please share what caused the bolt to not fit. Sorry I wasn’t able to help out on this one.
Jason
Hello Jason,
Great write up. I noticed you have a toolbox in the bed of your truck. Have you had any issues getting too close to it when making turns off camber?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve, so far I haven’t had any problems, but it is a rather small toolbox, it is the Truck Covers USA Work Cover Jr. It is only 5-1/2″ tall and 10″ deep. I had a site earlier this year that was pretty steep uphill to get in and was still fine.
Thanks,
Jason
Jason, I planed on getting the ultimate hitch for my 2017 F-150 Lariat Supercrew 5 1/2′ bed. Using a Timbren suspension enhancement, with Blue Ox Gooseneck hitch. My research indicates this will work for the 5th wheels i’m considering, even thou most have the Reese Revolution pin box. I know I can’t unlock the revolution with the Anderson, but still even 80 degrees, seems a good bet. I don’t want a heavy hitch, in case my wife or kids have to employ it. Are you still hesitant recommending the Anderson for 5 1/2 foot beds?
Michael
Michael, I still worry about the 5-1/2′ bed with the Andersen. I have gotten really close with the Andersen and a 6-1/2′ bed. If the RV you purchase has a revolution pin box I would definitely take advantage of that with a short bed. The Demco Recon hitch is a “light weight” alternative that would still keep the pinbox working for you.
Thanks,
Jason
Hi, have had or heard of any issues with the hitch turning in the bed when hooked to the 5th wheel? I read one review with that issue. Is there a way to make sure the hitch is square and centered in the bed and in the same spot each time? I drive a 2005 chevy 2500hd short bed and pull a 2010 rockwood signature ultra lite with a Reese sidewinder pin box and currently have a B&W companion plate that hooks in the slot for the goose neck ball. Also should I be concerned with cleanence issue for the back window with the Anderson hitch?
Leland,
I have read about the hitch turning, it may be the same review you saw. Personally I have never experienced that. I have spoken with several others who use the Andersen and they have never had it move either. As far as centering it up, I just eyeball it between my tie down pucks and don’t give it much thought. At most it’s probably 1/16″ of of being perfectly centered and aligned.
For clearance, I would say the Andersen will give you more than you have with the companion hitch paired with a standard pin box. Compared to the Reese sidewinder you will probably lose a few degrees of turning. I am assuming you have a 6-1/2′ bed not a super short 5-1/2′. You may want to lock the sidewinder in place and see how comfortable you are with your turning ablilty, that will be similar to what the Andersen would have.
Thanks,
Jason
Yes I have the 6-1/2 bed. The pin box is already locked because that’s the only way you can run it with the companion hitch. Thank you for all the helpful info you have posted and answering questions!!!! I am 95% sure I will be selling what I have and buying the Anderson ultimate hitch.
Thanks, I’m happy to help. Come back if you have any more questions.
Jason
HI, I sold my Chevy and got a 2012 ram 2500 megacab and I bought the Anderson hitch. Sound. Be worried about clearance issues with this truck. I think the bed is only 6’4” and not the 61/2 since it’s a megacab?
Leland, it could go either way, but I think you should be ok. Please let us know how it works out.
Thanks,
Jason
Jason, thanks for the great review. Could you elaborate on how/why the coupler in the “ball rearward” ads clearance between bed rails and back of pin box. Also how much clearance difference (+) would you see over the “ball forward” configuration?
I am considering the 3221 flatbed version and want the maximum pinbox/camper clearance to my bedrails (because I currently have a Ram 2500 4×4 with a factory 8′ bed, but in the future I will be switching to a CM flatbed). I plan on calling Andersen on this situation as it is unique that I will be switching beds, but wanted to see what clearance differences you came up with real world, especially since your truck is the same (with exception of bed length). Thanks
Dave,
I can try to explain it. When you use the ball reward position the pivot point is back under the pinbox instead of out in front. This means that when you turn the radius between the back of the pin box and the ball is shorter keeping it closer to the center of the bed.
As far as my clearance, I have several of the measurements in the article, but I never measured it clearance when turning. I have a trip planned this weekend, I will try and get the measurement and I will add it into the article. I’ll let you know when it’s there.
Thanks,
Jason
Thanks for all the info on the Andersen hitch. Preparing to purchase first 5er and trying to get as much info as possible. Where do you get the magnets you used for the remote latch cable.
Jimmy,
Good luck with the new trailer. I’m sure you will enjoy it.
I got the magnets on Amazon, here is a link https://amzn.to/2EGj9on
Thanks,
Jason
Thanks for this great Article. I just bought a Jayco Talon 5th wheel. I use a 2018 GMC 2500HD 6-1/2’ bed To pull it. The dealer I bought the 5er from installed the anderson hitch. I had a couple of problems out the gate first time. 1 the pin box made contact with my bed rail cover and grooved it bad at approximately 45° turn. Never expected it to hit. The dealer installed the ball receiver forward. So after reading this article I’m going to turn the ball receiver backwards and see if I get more turning radius. I also had the ball in the lowest hole so I’ll raise it one hole also to help. Number 2 problem I had was the mounted to release handle under the pin box which made the handle also contact the bottom edge of the bed rail so I removed it and installed it up high on the pin box with the handle facing backwards. It eliminated the problem of contact. I will check my perfect measurement for the cab clearence after changing the ball receiver to the back instead of front. Thanks again for the great information.
Earl
Earl,
Sorry to hear about the trouble you had when picking up you new RV. I’m glad you were able to find some helpful information here. If you have any other questions please let me know.
Thanks,
Jason
New to fifth wheel towing. Saw the Anderson Ultimate in some other groups and I knew it would be the perfect hitch for me. Light, no greasy fittings, easy to hitch and unhitch. Since I have no experience with other types of hitches I really can’t compare but I sure am loving my Anderson. My tow vehicle is a 2016 Ram 2500 with factory tow package. 6.7 Cummins Diesel. My rig is a 2018 Jayco Eagle 317RLOK 2050lb pin weight 12750 gross. Will be retiring early next fall and will be full timing!
Tom,
I love hearing about other people who use the Andersen Hitch. Thanks for sharing your setup with us too.
I’m a little jealous that you will be full timing next year, Have Fun!
Thanks,
Jason
Jason, have you heard anything concerning aluminum ball sheer ? john
John, I have heard some concerns about it. In my opinion unless you are in a major accident, I don’t think it would be possible to shear the ball. It would take a much more force than you can develop while towing to shear an aluminum bar that big.
Thanks,
Jason
Jason
my wife and I just bought a 2018 3500 Laramie 4×4 6,`4 aisin trans box we both just retired and heading into our 3rd faze of life looking in to purchasing a 3560ss big country they claim they have at tight turn technology front how much will this help the turning radius with the Andersen really like it but have friends who believe in sliders only
Mike,
Personally, I believe that being able to turn 90 degrees is overrated. With that said you do still need to be able to maneuver into a camping spot. As long as the Big Country isn’t a super wide body rig, then I think you would be fine with the Andersen. Again, this is just my opinion.
Jason
Jason, Thanks for the great review. We are in the process if upgrading to a 5th wheel and I am shoppin hitches for my 2018 Ram 3500 short bed. I really like the Andersen concept and am leaning towards it. I don’t have the factory gooseneck prep so am also looking at gooseneck hitches. I ordered the drawtite hide a goose which should arrive tomorrow but recently learned that it is not compatible with the drawtite offset ball. I have read that some use the offset ball with the Andersen to provide more cab clearance. I am looking at used 5th wheels in the 2012 range which have a somewhat rounded front cap but not quite as much as yours. I could return the draw tite and move up to the B&W flip over system which does offer an offset ball. Do you think it would be worth it to have that extra 4 inches of clearance? I know every camper is different. Could you let me know what model you have? Also, having never towed a 5th wheel before, how important is being able to turn a full 90 deg? I have a bumper pull camper now and couldn’t turn that sharp and haven’t had any issues. Thanks.
John,
The ability to turn 90 degrees is something everyone talks about, but i reality you don’t need it most of the time. I am unable to turn 90 degrees and it hasn’t kept me out of any campsites.
With regards to the offset ball, I think the extra clearance would be nice, but I don’t think you will have to have it. Like I mentioned above I haven’t had any problems and I don’t have the offset ball.
Good luck,
Jason
We have our first season behind us now using the Andersen ultimate hitch and our Grand Design 29rs pulling with my Ram 3500 with the 6.5 box. It was a great summer with many trips and the hitch worked perfectly! I could not be happier with my choice thanks to you and your great write up on it. It pulls our rig like a champ. It’s ease of installation and removal due to the fact of how little it weighs makes it one of the best purchases for our camper. Thanks again!
Michael, Thanks for sharing your experience. It’s great to get more information about what other setups people are using the Andersen hitch with.
Thanks for the compliment too.
Jason
Jason,
Thanks for the in-depth review, I own an Anderson Hitch so far so good. Have two concerns. I own a 2018 Ram 3500 4X4 6-1/2 bed 6.7 Cummins and a 2018 Bighorn 3870FB. I am experiencing some chucking, not bad but noticeable, put unit on scale and rear axle is at 6600,Max on axle is 7000, any suggestions? Second having the ball on the second notch leaves the pin hole exposed, does this weaken the ball rating? every time I look at it I just wonder, my nature I guess.
Bob, it sounds like you might need to shift some weight in your 5er to the front to put it on the hitch and lighten the load on the axles.
I agree with you that when the holes are showing there must be some decrease in the shear strength of the ball, but I’m sure the ratings are based on the worst case, the ball in the highest position.
Thanks for sharing your setup and experience.
Jason
Hi Jason, great review. Waiting for delivery of a 2019 cougar 25 RES and the dealer will be installing the Anderson ultimate. I’ve also read reviews about the hitch turning in the bed but I purchased a very thin rubber mat just to lay down from what I understand that should keep it from turning. I do have one question about the king pin and the pin coupler for the Anderson if you may know of a lock to put on the pin coupler like you would put on a king pin so no one can mess with it or take it in storage. I did email Anderson and they said that they have a company that made a lock box to go over the pin coupler but they’re looking to cost about $230 when a king pin lock is maybe just under 50. Just trying to keep from having to remove the pin coupler each time. Thanks,Tom
Was about to drill four large holes in the bed of our 2500 RAM 6.4L to install the fifth wheel prep package when I came across your review. We have the B&W gooseneck setup already on a 6’4” bed, so this Andersen looks ideal. Will be picking up our grand design 303 in Indianapolis in a month or so from Cleveland so your experience and write-up was extremely timely and relevant. Looking forward to more advice from your channel.
Thanks Scott
Great job. Thanks so much
Thanks Michael
Love the review. I just retired from the Marine Corps and bought a Dodge Ram, a Keystone Cougar, and now an Andersen hitch. I’ll be ready to hit the road in about 2 weeks.
Congratulations and thank you for your service.
Good luck hitting the road, feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
Thanks,
Jason
Great review! I have a question.. We have ours installed with just about 1500 miles pulling our new rig, Sabre 36BHQ, and I have noticed there is considerable play in the ball that the rig mounts to. Not play in the coupling, but rather back and forth / side to side motion in the ball itself with it installed. I have it set on the middle height setting and it is a severe bucking at stop/go bad roads. I am certain Andersen will make it right, but have you noticed this at all?
Josh, My ball does have a small about of play where it fits into the hitch frame, but not enough that it causes anything noticeable when towing.
Please let me know what Andersen has to say about it.
Thanks,
Jason
Jason—
Very thorough review on the Anderson Hitch- I really found it very informative. I just bough a standard Anderson Hitch for my brand new 2020 Chevy Silverado 2500HD and I have to have the Ball in the highest upward position and King Pin coupler in Rear mount position 2 in order to get RV Hitch-Pin clearance with my truck bedrails/tailgate. Any concern for stability of the Anderson Hitch- Pin Coupler with the ball in its highest position at all??
Thanks
-Matt
Matt, I know it does seem to have a little more “play” in the highest position, but it is perfectly safe. It might result in a little rougher ride, with the deep beds on most new truck there isn’t much of an option.
Jason
Jason, Great review Thank you. I’ve got a new (to me) Andersen on a B&W turnover ball that seems to turn on the ball. It’s on a 2005 Dodge 2500. After hooking up the trailer I retorque the bolts to 50 ft lbs. Tom
Tom, I just want to check you sequence for re-torquing the bolts. Here is what you should be doing:
If this is what you are doing could there be anything else preventing it from tightening down to the bed? Debris under the hitch or a thick bed rug?
I haven’t experienced the hitch moving while I tow with it.
Jason
Great review Jason.
I’m in the process of purchasing my first fifth wheel, a Grand Design Momentum 394. Due to the trailer weight, I’m concerned with the strength of the hitch despite it being rated at 24,000 lbs. I’ve read lots of good and bad opinions regarding the Anderson hitch. Thanks to your review and the fact that I have a few friends using it, I’m feel much more confident about it’s use. Huge thanks!!
Thanks, I love the hitch and so far haven’t had any problems with it.
Jason
Jason I have a 2016 Ram 2500 diesel with the factory 5th wheel prep package can I just drop in the gooseneck ball to this setup or do I need any Xtra hardware under the bed, also I’ve been to two RV/ Camper locations both of them want to sell anything but the Anderson also getting conflicting info on just what I need. Thanks for your input.
Geno,
As long as you have the gooseneck ball you are good to go. If you choose to use safety chains like I do, then you will also need the quick connect pucks that go on the sides to attache the chains too. You do not need any additional hardware under the bed, everything attaches in the bed to the factory prep package.
Some dealers I have talked to love the Andersen, some hate it, and some don’t even know what it is. I can’t figure out why other than they make more money selling and installing a big heavy hitch.
If your local dealer doesn’t want to sell you the Andersen hitch you could always order it from Amazon or another dealer.
Good luck, please let me know how it goes and if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
Jason
I like the review and would agree with all the pros and cons you mentioned. I think conceptually this hitch is probably the best thing going on the market right now. However, the design needs a few improvements to rid itself of the major deficiencies I am about to describe. I only write these comments in an effort to encourage the company to come up with the needed design changes to vastly improve their product. I believe the overall design and concept is fantastic and their customer service has been as good or better than any company I have ever had dealings with. Unfortunately, I have had 3 failures of different parts of my Anderson ultimate hitch. I have owned it just less than 1 year and have roughly 15,000 miles of towing my 39′ 10″ long 17000lbs GVWR toyhauler. My first failure was the pin holes in the base started to waller out to ovals leaving the Ball able to move more and more and allowing slop between parts to grow. I know the main point of being aluminum is for the hitch to be light, but a small amount off added weight by making the ball, pins and, ball sleeve steel would greatly improve its durability. Aluminum is too soft for this contact area between different parts. The other part that failed was the coupling block. The ball punched through the aluminum block leaving the ball to have slop. Fortunately both times this happened was more or less uneventful because the 5th wheel tongue itself has the ball captured but the broken aluminum block allows the ball about 1/2 slop up and down. If they machined the block where the ball goes in to be an aluminum sphere with a poly spherical sleeve instead, of the current cylindrical hole with 1/8″ of aluminum left on top and a spherical poly sleeve this part would probably not fail in this way. Some material changes in their design and different machining pattern that left more material in the ball socket for strength could greatly improve the overall safety and durability of this product. Just to clarify none of these failures were an immediate safety risk but resulted in parts needing to be replaced before it became a safety problem.
Jayson,
Thanks for sharing you experience. In 2 years I haven’t experienced any of the issues you did, I wonder if the heavier weight of you camper compared to mine is making the difference.
I am happy to hear their customer service has been good your you, I know it was good for me. I wonder if the design was changed in the year between mine and yours.
Your recommendations seem reasonable to me. Some type of hardened sleeve in the pin holes could also improve their strength without adding too much additional weight.
Thanks,
Jason
Jason
Great review I just purchased an Andersen like you I wanted something easy and light to remove. This will be my first trip I have a 2014 3500 Ram 6.7 long bed and a 2014 Raptor 332. So far everything I have read and heard sounds good. I have my ball at the middle setting and the hitch forward and like you said I will find out what adjustments need to be made after I tow. Thanks again
Nick
Nick,
Welcome to the club. Please let me know what you think of the hitch after you get a chance to use it. I hope you like it as much as I do.
Thanks,
Jason
Hi Jason, Thanks for your excellent review, I just switched from a Ford 8 ft bx with factory puck and B&W hitch, the Anderson is so alluring for all of the above mentioned reasons, currently have a Ram 3500, crew cab. towing a Fuzion toy hauler with 3100 lbs of hitch weight, 16,500 GVWR. i bought the anderson to reduce the amount of payload. I have yet to hook up to RV, quite frankly I’m very nervous about the hitch pin set up. I have a lipport pin box, and in the forward position the anderson is past the hitch about an inch, the set screws are firmly on the pinbox. anyone out there have a similar set up that could ease my concerns before i order a B&W slider hitch.
I love the concept of the anderson though.
I don’t know about that particular combination.
Hopefully someone else could comment.
Thanks,
Jason
I have a F250 with a draw title fold down hide way ball .2 in 5/16 ball do you see any reason I wouldn’t work with my ultimate 5th connection
No, it should work just fine.
Jason
One thing to consider is the height of your trucks gooseneck ball . I just had to leave my new camper at the dealership and cancel my reservations because the Andersen hitch they ordered would not attach to the standard ball in my b&w hitch . The sleeve wasn’t long enough to get the pin and still get the top bolt threaded in . After looking at he the instructions they sell different lengths sleeves but I have found no mention of that on any site that sells the hitch . The other solution to the problem is to buy a high rise ball for around 200$ . My dealer was great and called every b&w dealer near trying to get a high rise ball but couldn’t find one anywhere and it’ll be next week to get the longer sleeve so no camping for me this week . I’d be mad at the dealer but if I had ordered it myself I’d be in the same boat because of lack of information as it is not mentioned anywhere that I have found . I have sprayed in bed liner which is nowhere near as thick as the rubber bed mat they sell to go under them so that not the problem if you were thinking that . That being said it seams well built and a secure attachment and I’m sure I’ll be happy with it when I get it installed. Your review is really good just thought I’d let people know my problem to help avoid postponed camping trip .
Stanley,
Sorry to hear you had to cancel your trip, but thanks for sharing. Hopefully your story will save someone else the same frustration.
Thanks,
Jason
I was wondering if I could get the new and improved ball guide . mine has a small crack where the front bolt is mounted thanks Marla
Marla, if yours is cracked I would call Andersen, maybe they will give you the new on as a warranty replacement.
Thanks,
Jason
Jason, thought I would add this information to the discussion. This past weekend, I replaced the Lippert 1621 HD pin box with the MorRyde rubber pin box on our Cedar Creek 33IK. The coupler wiggled right off the old pin box, but when I went to reinstall it onto the pin of the MorRyde, it would not go on. The MorRyde is made of much heavier gauge steel than the Lippert, and the pin had paint on it. I got some sandpaper and removed all of the paint, but it was still too tight. I went to Home Depot and bought a package of 5 80 grit sanding belts. I cut them at the seam, and then spent the day sanding on the pin with the belt wrapped around the pin. 5 belts later, and having worn a hole through the fingers of a pair of leather gloves, the coupler fit snugly on the MorRyde pin.
Since the MorRyde has the rubber isolator under the body of the pin box frame, I also lowered the ball of my hitch to the lowest setting. I still have 6.5 inches over the bed rails, and the trailer sits almost perfectly level. No complaints about the Andersen hitch o the MorRyde pin box, just wanted to add this in case anyone else finds themselves in this situation. Your review of this hitch and this discussion thread is the best around, and was the key in my decision to go with the Andersen hitch!
Tim,
Thanks for sharing your experience, sounds like it took a little work to get your Andersen hitch setup, but it was worth it.
I’m sure someone else will find your experience helpful.
Jason
Hi Jason, Thanks for the thorough review and explanation on use and installation. I’m considering an Anderson Ultimate Hitch, but there are a few reviews that show the aluminum hitch ball sheering and the 5th wheel falling on the truck. Whether it be driver error or just failure of a inferior ball, that has me concerned. I also read one comment “hitch has been tested for SAE J2638 industry hitch standards and failed! “ Do you know anything about this? Charles
Charles,
I have heard stories of the ball sheering off, but not under normal driving conditions. I believe any hitch could fail in an accident.
Regarding the SAE J2638 testing, I don’t think the hitch has officially been tested.
Thanks,
Jason
Great review Jason. I have the Andersen in my ’03 Ram 3500 with a short bed. I had to flip the coupler around to the rear as well for clearance. I can turn pretty decent, just not quite 90 degrees. I found out just how far I could turn when the front of my fifth wheel contacted the roof of my truck. Lesson learned I guess.
So far I’ve gone over 5,000 miles with the hitch and every thing has worked great (minus the turning issue). A lot of people seem to have never seen one of these hitches and it sure makes for a nice conversation starter with neighbors at campgrounds.
Thank You. I have also met several neighbors because they want to check out the hitch. Sorry to hear about that “turning issue”
Jason
Talking with a MORryde customer service person recently I asked about using the Anderson Ultimate with their MORryde pin box. Jennifer stated that MORryde does not recommend the use of the Anderson Ultimate with their pin box but if one does they need to change out the four plastic spacers to the largest they offer. I was thinking of swapping out my PullRite SuperSlider for the Anderson Ultimate to use in combination with my 2020 GMC Sierra 3500HD and Jayco Pinnacle 32RLTS.
Great article by the way.
Thanks, I’m glad you liked the article. I have heard that about the MORryde pin box, thank you for sharing what you found out.
Good luck on your decision.
Jason
Terry, did Morryde give a reason for not using the Andersen? Are you using the Andersen & if so any issues with the Morryde? Thanks for the input.
Jim
Excellent video and instructions! You mentioned that you had to cut your puck pins used for chain attachment so that the Anderson frame would fit in between them. Do you know if a 2016 F250 will have the same problem? If so, I can purchase a different gooseneck hitch kit rather than the Ford factory kit. Surprisingly, the Ford factory under the bed hitch is less expensive than the B&W kit I was considering. Thanks for your help!
Steven,
I don’t know how it would work with the F250. I just depends on how close to the center of the bed the tie-down pucks are.
Jason
Hey Jason, Thank you for your time and effort in helping out everyone on this hitch. I am now highly interested in it as well. I have a RAM 2500 6.5 bed with the ramboxes. The only set up that seemed to work would be a sidewinder and non slide hitch. The 5er I want to get has the brand new Lippert chassis and pin box called the rhino box. Unfortunately, Reese and Lippert do not make a compatible sidewinder version for this new design. However the new rhino box (pin box) is a lower profile and shorter than Lipperts 1621 box. So I am hoping to have clearance between the pin box and ramboxes. How much space do you have between your pin box and bed side rails with that cover when you are turning sharp? I dont believe the 1621 box will fit with my ram boxes, but I am hoping the new rhino box might. I was hoping to see how close you were to get an idea of where I stand.
John, I only have about 2″ of clearance between the pinbox and the rails for my cover. I don’t know much about the Rhino box, but I hope it works out for you.
I had ramboxes on my 1500 and really wanted to keep them when I moved up to a 1 ton, but in the end I decided to get the regular bed and keep the extra clearance.
Thanks,
Jason
Hi
I am looking to change to the Anderson system and your review was great, Thank you.
The reason we are changing is that we use a standard slider and Reese sidewinder and it is hard to manually unlock the slider, also to lift it out at the end of our trip due to weight. We have cracked the front beam, on the trailer, twice and believe it is the stress from the sidewinder. I also like it, if we are staying at a location for a awhile it can be removed easily. Still not sure about the safety chains though?
Hi, I purchased my Andersen Ultimate hitch in 2016. I pull a 30 ft 5 th wheel .I absolutely love the hitch, especially the ease of installation and removal. The only issue I have is that the hitch rotates in the bed of truck a bit especially on rough roads. I am very diligent on tightening procedures with a torque wrench at 50 lbs of torque as written on the hitch itself. I have read one post above with the same issue. He stated he put a thin layer of rubber under the hitch but did not say whether that fixed the problem. My truck bed has a rubber spray liner in it. Would torquing the top bolt at 50 lbs then lowering the trailer on it then torquing the 2 front bolts help ? I also thought about drilling thru the truck bed 2 holes in the corners-where there is a 1/2 inch hole in the bottom tray part of hitch ( I assume those are water drain holes ) then I would drop a pin in it. Any thoughts or recommendations please would be much appreciated.Thanks
Gil,
I haven’t had any problems with my hitch rotating. I also have a spray in liner. As for as the process for torquing the bolts, I usually lower the camper onto the hitch with the back bolts loose then retorque the top bolt before tightening the back 2 bolts.
Drilling hole in the bed would stop it, but I don’t think I would go that route.
Thanks,Jason
I have a new 1/2 ton towable 5th wheel WT 7100#s
My truck is a 2019 Ram 1500 with 4 corner air suspension and I am very worried that the hitch weight 1300#s
might not work with my air bags..
Any thoughts on this as I have not picked up trailer yet
Charles, The hitch weight is usually the problem with 5th wheels and 1/2 ton trucks. I don’t know what your max cargo capacity is, but make sure you have at least a couple hundred pound extra to account for your hitch, gear in the camper and anything else you put in the truck (including passengers).
Jason
Hi Jason,
I purchased a 2019 Ram 1500 with 3.92 rear just so I could weekend tow a fifth wheel. My local offroad place turned me onto the Anderson Hitch. They installed the gooseneck set up and then the Anderson. They said to call if I have problems setting up my kingpin, but after reading your story, I’m pretty confident I can do it myself. Thank you for the most informative post I have seen to date on this hitch and 6.5 beds.
Doreen
Thank you 😃
Jason thanks for your review I also have the aluminum Anderson hitch but would like to know if I can put more weight up on steer axle by reversing the ball mount to the front or if reversing the ball receiver to the rear Would be better
making the ride better keeping in mind clearance for all things
Steve, there’s no problem flipping the receiver around. I don’t think I would try flipping the whole hitch around though. It was only designed to be installed one way, if you flip it around you might be risking loading it incorrectly and something could fail.
Awesome review and video! I understand that by reversing the Cupler with the ball behind the pin on the trailer that that brings the cap of the trailer closer to the cab of the truck. But under normal driving circumstances how much difference is there (cap to cab) when turning? For example with the Cupler ball in front of the pin say I get 88° with the Cupler ball behind the pin how many degrees would I get?
Quentin,
Thank You. I would say it’s not that big of a difference. You will never have a problem while driving forward, when backing up maybe 5-10 degrees difference, but that is just a guess.
Thanks,
Jason
Hello, wonderful instructional, thank You. We are complete newbies at this, just purchased a Jayco Pinnacle 36FBTS that we will pick up once the new ordered Ram 3500 Truck with an 8′ bed arrives in Mid July. I have read seem like a million opinions on why this is a great hitch, or not, void warranties, etc. Then you get the “well, it is ok for a lighter rig, but not for a heavier unit.” The hitch is rated at 24K and warranted as such by the company, with a fancy insurance policy to boot, and we think this is what we want. Can you steer me as to which model I need? The truck will have the factory puck system installed. I have seen here for the first time what ball to get? I have a question as to how the hitch remains straight without slightly turning one way or the other. Does the Curt ball and chain kit help in this regard?
Thank You for your help
Rene